Florida

Florida

(Without the crowds)

(Without the crowds)

Discover the parts of the Sunshine State that are lesser known but offer all the delights you’d expect – and plenty more

With its sun-drenched beaches, high-octane theme parks and the chance to spot its famed wildlife, Florida flies high on many a holiday wishlist. But look beyond the rollercoasters, resorts and reptile-rich wetlands and you'll find a very different Sunshine State.

It's one with pastel-hued surf towns oozing Old Florida vibes, glitzy palm-fringed barrier islands with Gilded Age histories, and quirky beach enclaves where surreal art and gastronomy thrive around every corner. Whether it's kayaking through mangrove tunnels, watching a rocket launch from your sun lounger or finding your zen in a secret Japanese garden, Florida's quieter corners offer the chance to get a true sense of America's sunniest state.

Outdoorsy Florida: the Space Coast

Outdoorsy Florida: the Space Coast

Ever since 1969 when Apollo 11 blasted off from what was then Cape Kennedy, Florida’s central Atlantic coast has been a cornerstone of America’s space programme. Stretching from Titusville down to Palm Bay, the 72-mile long Space Coast is daisy-chained by cutesy beach towns where the delights and sights on offer range from rocket launches and surf tournaments to turtle hatching and bioluminescent waters – a night-time light show every bit as wondrous as the night sky. 

Kennedy Space Center is an essential day out on any Florida itinerary – but it’s a dream come true for space geeks. Visitors can get close enough to see actual space dust on Space Shuttle Atlantis, learn about the race to the moon under the gaze of Saturn V, the world’s largest rocket, and even enjoy lunch with an astronaut. And if you time it right, you could witness a live rocket launch from nearby Cape Canaveral.

But it’s not all space exploration in this part of the state. The kingpin of beach towns is Cocoa Beach, the renowned surfing capital of the East Coast. Drenched in year-round sunshine, it’s renowned for its golden sands, lively nightlife and top-notch surf breaks – it’s where 11-times World Champion Kelly Slater trained. Graze the seafood shacks on Westgate Pier, hit up Happy Hour in the tiki bars or browse for board shorts at
Ron Jon Surf Shop, the biggest in the world.

Ever since 1969 when Apollo 11 blasted off from what was then Cape Kennedy, Florida’s central Atlantic coast has been a cornerstone of America’s space programme. Stretching from Titusville down to Palm Bay, the 72-mile long Space Coast is daisy-chained by cutesy beach towns where the delights and sights on offer range from rocket launches and surf tournaments to turtle hatching and bioluminescent waters – a night-time light show every bit as wondrous as the night sky. 

Kennedy Space Center is an essential day out on any Florida itinerary – but it’s a dream come true for space geeks. Visitors can get close enough to see actual space dust on Space Shuttle Atlantis, learn about the race to the moon under the gaze of Saturn V, the world’s largest rocket, and even enjoy lunch with an astronaut. And if you time it right, you could witness a live rocket launch from nearby Cape Canaveral.

But it’s not all space exploration in this part of the state. The kingpin of beach towns is Cocoa Beach, the renowned surfing capital of the East Coast. Drenched in year-round sunshine, it’s renowned for its golden sands, lively nightlife and top-notch surf breaks – it’s where 11-times World Champion Kelly Slater trained. Graze the seafood shacks on Westgate Pier, hit up Happy Hour in the tiki bars or browse for board shorts at Ron Jon Surf Shop, the biggest in the world.

Cocoa Beach, Florida
The liftoff of a NASA Space Shuttle from the Kennedy Space Center
 Two people fishing during a sunset at Merritt Island National Park in Florida
Cocoa Beach, Florida
The liftoff of a NASA Space Shuttle from the Kennedy Space Center
KENNEDY SPACE CENTERBecome immersed in the wonders of outer space at the Kennedy Space Center

There’s also the Historic Cocoa Village, a quaint community on the banks of the Indian River with a distinct Old Florida vibe. Shaded by century-old oak trees, Main Street is lined with Victorian shopfronts and cute clapboard cottages now housing art galleries, antiques emporiums and vinyl shops. It’s also home to the historic Cocoa Beach Playhouse, which hosts Broadway-style musicals.

For a quieter beach stay, head to Playalinda Beach on the Canaveral National Seashore near Titusville – its pristine beaches banked by natural dunes are great for dolphin spotting. It’s also a prime viewing spot for rocket launches from Cape Canaveral. 

To experience the wilder side of Florida, you’ll need to venture inland. Spanning more than 140,000 acres, the protected wetlands in Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge are home to thousands of species, including loggerhead and green turtles, spotted eagle rays and ruby-throated hummingbirds. Don’t miss Black Point Wildlife Drive, a seven-mile driving route through marshes where you’ll find basking alligators and roseate spoonbills wading in the shallows. 

Visit between June and August and see the wetlands shimmering with bioluminescence, a naturally occurring phenomenon when tiny organisms similar to plankton glow when disturbed in the water. You can even hop on an evening kayak tour down the Indian River and Mosquito Lagoon to witness these luminous green-blue streaks as you glide through the water.

Space Coasts

top three beaches

Space Coasts

top three beaches

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A sunrise at Playalinda Beach in Florida
 A wooden boardwalk leading toward the Atlantic Ocean at Cocoa Beach, Florida
Jetty Park Beach and Pier in Port Canaveral, Florida
A sunrise at Playalinda Beach in Florida
 A wooden boardwalk leading toward the Atlantic Ocean at Cocoa Beach, Florida
COCOA BEACHSunshine and white sand beaches await at St. Pete-Clearwater

Crowd-pleaSing Florida: St Pete-

Clearwater

Crowd-

pleaSing Florida: St

Pete-

Clearwater

Crowd-

pleaSing Florida: St Pete-

Clearwater

With its palm trees, sparkling waters, pure white sands and clear blue skies, Clearwater Beach is Babylon for beach-loving families. Children can spend hours building sandcastles, paddling in the shallows or searching for sand dollars, those curious flat sea urchins that bury themselves in the sand, offering a window to parents ready to kick back and relax. 

With an astonishing 361 days of sunshine each year, in St Pete-Clearwater, every day is a beach day. It’s a good thing, then, that it has some of the best beaches in America. Spend lazy days at Pass-a-Grille and Belleair Beach, or for a livelier experience head to Treasure Island Beach, its long blonde sands lined with tiki bars and quirky mom ’n’ pop motels.
 
Aside from bundling around the beach, there’s plenty of other fun to be had. Book a cruise and spot playful dolphins and hungry pelicans or learn more about marine life at the Clearwater Marine Aquarium, a marine research facility with an animal hospital for injured dolphins, manatees and sea turtles. Meanwhile, younger nippers will love cooling off on the Splash Pad on St Pete Pier.

Ever since 1969 when Apollo 11 blasted off from what was then Cape Kennedy, Florida’s central Atlantic coast has been a cornerstone of America’s space programme. Stretching from Titusville down to Palm Bay, the 72-mile long Space Coast is daisy-chained by cutesy beach towns where the delights and sights on offer range from rocket launches and surf tournaments to turtle hatching and bioluminescent waters – a night-time light show every bit as wondrous as the night sky. 

Kennedy Space Center is an essential day out on any Florida itinerary – but it’s a dream come true for space geeks. Visitors can get close enough to see actual space dust on Space Shuttle Atlantis, learn about the race to the moon under the gaze of Saturn V, the world’s largest rocket, and even enjoy lunch with an astronaut. And if you time it right, you could witness a live rocket launch from nearby Cape Canaveral.

But it’s not all space exploration in this part of the state. The kingpin of beach towns is Cocoa Beach, the renowned surfing capital of the East Coast. Drenched in year-round sunshine, it’s renowned for its golden sands, lively nightlife and top-notch surf breaks – it’s where 11-times World Champion Kelly Slater trained. Graze the seafood shacks on Westgate Pier, hit up Happy Hour in the tiki bars or browse for board shorts at Ron Jon Surf Shop, the biggest in the world.

 A handmade sign composed of vintage license plates spelling out Clearwater Beach at Pier 60
An aerial view of the white sandy shores of Clearwater Beach, Florida
An aerial view of Fort De Soto Park, Florida
 A handmade sign composed of vintage license plates spelling out Clearwater Beach at Pier 60
An aerial view of the white sandy shores of Clearwater Beach, Florida
ST PETE-CLEARWATERSunshine and white sand beaches await at St. Pete-Clearwater

Alongside its brilliant beaches, St Pete-Clearwater has acres of leafy mangroves attracting a cast of feathered, scaled and finned residents. South of Downtown St Pete is Boyd Hill Nature Preserve, where you can meet Florida’s snappier residents on an Awesome Alligator guided walk. A short hop from Pass-a-Grille Beach and Shell Key is Fort De Soto Park, a chain of five islands where older kids and teens can go kayaking and paddleboarding through mangrove tunnels to spot manatees, bottlenose dolphins and pink roseate spoonbills. 

Beyond its beaches, St Pete-Clearwater has a vibrant art scene to dive into, making this a cultured break too. As the Gulf Coast’s creative capital, it comes with a side of surrealism. Opened on the waterfront in 1982, the Dalí Museum, housed in a geodesic glass dome, has the largest collection of Dalí’s work outside of Spain. Floridarama is another big draw. An immersive art-and-tech playground with futuristic neon-lit rooms and interactive installations, it’s like seeing life through a giant kaleidoscope.

And the fun doesn’t stop when the sun goes down. Sunsets at Pier 60 is St Pete-Clearwater's nightly fiesta, when street performers, artists and musicians gather on the pier for a sundowner. 

Foodie Florida

 A close-up of Yucatan Shrimp
 A shrimp scampi dish served with linguine pasta at a restaurant

FAMILY FEASTS

Shrimp and grits, baskets of crab claws and grouper po’boys – no one goes hungry in St Pete-Clearwater. Check out friendly beach joints like Doc Ford’s Rum Bar & Grille on St Pete Pier, the legendary Frenchy’s Rockaway Grill on Clearwater Beach, or Mullet’s Fish Camp & Market in South St Pete.

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Gatsby-glamourous: The Palm Beaches

Gatsby-

glamourous: The Palm Beaches

Gatsby-

glamourous: The Palm Beaches

With rippling golden sands, palm-lined boulevards and pastel-hued Gilded Age mansions, The Palm Beaches has been a winter haven for luxury lovers since the early 20th century. It was the vision of oil baron Henry M Flagler, who extended his East Coast Railway line and transformed this stretch of Florida coastline into the elite resort area it is today.

More than a century later and the grande dames of hospitality still rule the roost. Founded in 1896, The Breakers was Flagler’s first hotel in Palm Beach. Its current handsome reincarnation dates back to 1926 and is reminiscent of Villa Medici in Rome. Its ocean-front infinity pools, brace of championship golf courses and lavish restaurants still appeal to everyone, including the A-list. 

Another Palm Beach stalwart is The Colony Hotel, which opened in 1947. A firm favourite of Judy Garland and Frank Sinatra, this stucco-fronted pink paradise is still a Palm Beach hotspot, whether it’s for brunch at Swifty’s or to sunbathe by the snazzy Florida-shaped swimming pool.

Today, Palm Beach is still the last word in glamour, particularly on Worth Avenue, a ritzy and exclusive shopping district – make sure to leave room in your suitcase for the luxury clothing you’ll bring back. For those with an eye for the unique, you’ll want to head to Antique Row, West Palm Beach’s art and design district where you’ll find a glut of antiques stores, vintage emporiums and art galleries hiding the odd Gilded Age relic.

Ever since 1969 when Apollo 11 blasted off from what was then Cape Kennedy, Florida’s central Atlantic coast has been a cornerstone of America’s space programme. Stretching from Titusville down to Palm Bay, the 72-mile long Space Coast is daisy-chained by cutesy beach towns where the delights and sights on offer range from rocket launches and surf tournaments to turtle hatching and bioluminescent waters – a night-time light show every bit as wondrous as the night sky. 

Kennedy Space Center is an essential day out on any Florida itinerary – but it’s a dream come true for space geeks. Visitors can get close enough to see actual space dust on Space Shuttle Atlantis, learn about the race to the moon under the gaze of Saturn V, the world’s largest rocket, and even enjoy lunch with an astronaut. And if you time it right, you could witness a live rocket launch from nearby Cape Canaveral.

But it’s not all space exploration in this part of the state. The kingpin of beach towns is Cocoa Beach, the renowned surfing capital of the East Coast. Drenched in year-round sunshine, it’s renowned for its golden sands, lively nightlife and top-notch surf breaks – it’s where 11-times World Champion Kelly Slater trained. Graze the seafood shacks on Westgate Pier, hit up Happy Hour in the tiki bars or browse for board shorts at Ron Jon Surf Shop, the biggest in the world.

Aerial view of Boca Raton, Florida, looking north between the Atlantic Ocean and Intracoastal Waterway
The Colony Hotel in Palm Beach, Florida
The Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens in Delray Beach, Florida
Aerial view of Boca Raton, Florida, looking north between the Atlantic Ocean and Intracoastal Waterway
The Colony Hotel in Palm Beach, Florida
THE COLONY HOTELStep inside history when you stay at The Colony Hotel | Credit: Lesley Unruh

Shopping at this level can work up an appetite. Luckily, fine dining is an art form in Palm Beach, whether it’s an alfresco lunch at Sant Ambroeus or a supper of French classics at Café Boulud. 

For those looking for a pampering spa day, head to The Boca Raton, another sprawling Gilded Age resort in the south of the county. It has the eclectic Sponder Art Gallery, an 18-hole championship golf course, and a mall of designer boutiques. However, the jewel in its crown is Spa Palmera, a vast and opulent wellness sanctuary inspired by the Alhambra Palace in Granada. 

Attracting year-round sunshine and a luxe clientele, it's no surprise that The Palm Beaches is called Florida’s Golf Capital. It features more than 145 courses, including The Breakers' legendary Ocean Course, the oldest 18-hole course still operating on its original site. If golf is not your game, find a different zen at Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens in Delray Beach. Spread across 16 acres, it has six gardens from Japan’s history, including a 12th-century Shinden Garden and the Bonsai Collection, plus koi-filled lakes.

A brightly illuminated carousel ride

Polo at the Palm Beaches

Winter is polo season in The Palm Beaches, and nearby Wellington styles itself as America’s equestrian capital. Visit the National Polo Center, where you can watch chukkas over a champagne brunch from the grandstand. For serious polo fans, the Grand Champions Polo Club hosts all the major tournaments and draws the sport’s biggest stars and their horses. And don’t miss the Winter Equestrian Festival (WEF) at Wellington International. If you want to swing a mallet yourself, local polo schools like Palm Beach Polo School will show you the ropes for the day.

A show jumping competition taking place at night at Wellington International in Florida

Around

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A family enjoying a day at the beach

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Produced by Telegraph Media Group

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Project manager: Isabelle Bignell | Writer: Tracey Davies | Commissioning editor: Jasmin Nahar | Sub-editors: Tim Cumming, Neil Queen-Jones | Picture editor: Katie Longley | Design: Matt Brant | Web editor: Demi Bissette-Wilson | Picture credits: Getty

Project manager: Isabelle Bignell | Writer: Tracey Davies | Commissioning editor: Jasmin Nahar | Sub-editors: Tim Cumming, Neil Queen-Jones | Picture editor: Katie Longley | Design: Matt Brant | Web editor: Demi Bissette-Wilson | Picture credits: Getty